Texan Magazine
By Nancy Foster: Direct Descendant of a Victim of the Salem Witch Trials
The spookiest city in the USA is actually a beautiful and picturesque seaside town in Massachusetts with a haunting and major historical past. Impressive architecture, excellent food, stunning hotels and quaint bed and breakfasts make this charming hamlet a fabulous getaway.
Known as “Witch City,” there’s so much to see in this fascinating city where you will find dozens of 17th and 18th century buildings to explore.
However, you can’t talk about Salem without mentioning it’s infamous witch hunt era. Tragically, innocent people died during these trials.
Susannah North Martin was 71 years old the day she was hanged as a witch. It was 1692, and mass hysteria was at its height in Salem, which is located on Boston’s North Shore. Young girls claimed spells caused them to utter strange sounds, clutch their heads, and experience spirits choking or stabbing them. Neighbors accused neighbors of sorcery, and 150 arrests were made throughout the region. Susannah, an impoverished widow who lived 30 miles away in Amesbury, was among those accused. Her crime? Being an outspoken woman who annoyed her neighbors so much that rumors of her practicing witchcraft ran rampant. She was carted off in a wagon, denied counsel and thrown in a crude jail with five other women, all who met the same fate and all who could have redeemed themselves had they admitted to being witches. At her trial, Susannah scorned her accusers, maintained her pious beliefs and went to her death on Gallows Hill with head held high. All in all, 14 women and five men were hanged and one man was stoned to death before the tragic witchcraft trials in Salem ended in 1693.
———Susannah North Martin was actually my 11th great-grandmother.———-
Salem’s Colorful Past
Salem was settled by colonists in 1626, although its roots harken to Native American tribes who inhabited the region then known as Naumkeag for thousands of years. Salem deserves credit for remaining committed to its historical significance as one of the most prosperous communities in the New Colony, where maritime merchants sailed the globe to establish lucrative trade markets, and where tales of its horrifying witchcraft period still educate and fascinate the young and old.
So Much To See And Do
Much of downtown Salem is walkable, and you’ll enjoy it more if you do. Visitors will sense the days of yesteryear while discovering 18 period homes built between 1620 – 1720 and over 600 historical plaques that ID many homes and buildings. Several period hotels and B&Bs are in the heart of the historic district, but one we favor is the Hawthorne Hotel, opened in 1925 and designated a Historic Hotel of America. Named after author Nathaniel Hawthorne, the hotel is a step back in time with well-appointed common areas and a lobby that beckons you to sit for a while. Standard rooms are not overly spacious, but the décor is tasteful, the beds are comfortable, and views of the city are lovely. There are two dining options, the 1920s themed Nathaniel’s (go for breakfast and order the quiche), and The Tavern, a homey pub-style place where you can belly up to the bar or dine at well-spaced tables. The eclectic menu has excellent choices, but consider ordering a side of decadent Parmesan Truffle Fries…arguably the best on the planet. For a light meal, pair the fries with a cup of Steve’s Creamy Seafood Chowder and sip a local craft beer. You’ll dine in a state of bliss.
The grassy, eight-acre Salem Commons, used since the 17th century, is next door to the Hawthorne and will entice you to take a relaxing stroll through the Village Green. Add to that a walk to the thought-provoking
Proctor’s Ledge Memorial, a stone wall etched with the names of the witch trial victims and their execution dates. Stop next at the Salem Witch Museum, a must-see attraction to help you understand more about the dark era when so many were accused, tried, and hanged. There’s often a waiting time and tickets can only be purchased online, but the realism of the exhibits makes it well worth going.
An easy and fun way to see a lot of Salem in a short amount of time is on an escorted tour, and there are many. Hop on the Salem Trolley for a one-hour tour or sign on for a themed tour. One you might enjoy is the Haunted Footsteps Ghost Tours where you have the option of three 90-minute tours including the History Tour, 1692 Salem Witchcraft Walk or the Haunted Footsteps Ghost Tour.
The Salem Maritime National Historic Site is also a must-see. The complex sits on nine acres and holds significance as the first National Historic Site in the U.S. Within its nine acres are ten historic buildings, nine archeological sites, and an 1871 lighthouse. Other historical sites of interest are the 1815 Custom House, Peabody Essex Museum, and House of Seven Gables (the setting of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s 1851 novel). You’ll find many monuments to explore including a 6’ witch-themed bronze statue honoring Elizabeth Montgomery, star of the 1960s “Bewitched” TV show. Several episodes were filmed in and around Salem – including scenes at the Hawthorne Hotel.
The panoramic waterfront is significant to Salem, and a scenic stop is Pickering Wharf, a beautiful harbor-side district of historical landmarks, waterfront dining, and local shops. If you visit during May – October, take a sail on the gaff-rigged schooner FAME, a replica of the 1812 privateer vessel that sails into Salem Sound. Stroll from there to nearby Derby Wharf, home to the 171’ Friendship of Salem. It’s an impressive replica of a 1797 merchant ship.
For sheer fun with a big helping of nostalgia, carve out an hour and visit Salem Willows. This 35-acre city-owned park, just a five-minute drive from downtown, was built in 1858 and offers great waterfront views, lots of green space and lush picnic grounds. Kids of all ages will enjoy the 1905 carousel, an old-fashioned 50s era arcade with games like Skeeball, Galaga, and Pac-Man, and foodie stops for pizza, lemonade, ice cream, and popcorn. Don’t expect modern, but do expect old-fashioned amusement.
Dining
You won’t go hungry in Salem. Depending on your mood, there are many excellent cafes, bistros, walk-ups, bars, pubs and fine dining choices. Like most New England towns, Salem prides itself on seafood. Many eateries will include freshly-caught haddock, cod, swordfish, lobster, or crab cakes on their menus. For regional food specialties, try a plate of whole-bellied fried clams (never, ever the clam strips, lest you want derisive looks from true Yankees). A five-minute walk from the Hawthorne Hotel brings you to two fine-dining establishments by Pickering Wharf.
Finz Seafood and Grill overlooks Salem Harbor and dishes up culinary wonders including fresh lobster, Crab Stuffed Haddock and Yellowfin Black and White Sesame Tuna. Its nautical theme, built-in raw and sushi bars, and outdoor patio dining make this one a winner for taste and atmosphere. At the trendy Sea Level Oyster Bar, irresistible choices include Baked Seafood Pie, Stuffed or Steamed Lobster, or the Salem Sound Clambake. The wait will seem shorter if you leisurely sip a frosty Scary Mary cocktail or Blueberry Martini.
Shopping Areas
Everyone loves to shop and you’ll find tons of trinket shops, boutiques, candy shops, galleries and museum stores in Salem. Stroll the Essex Street Pedestrian Mall for lots of choices, and venture onto side streets where you’ll notice numerous shops with quirky names.
It is somewhat ironic that Salem, famed for all those hanged in 1692 and later exonerated, would become the haven for up to 1000 self-proclaimed modern-day witches or Wiccans. They have found the city welcoming and a good fit for their nature-focused allegiance and spiritual credo of “Harm no one and do as you will.” Many have become shop owners and stock items on the occult, healing herbs, and talismans in addition to attire and trinkets.
When To Go
Fall is a lovely time to visit Boston’s picturesque North Shore, but in Salem, especially around Halloween time, it gets very, very busy. Visitors from around the globe come to enjoy witch-themed activities and events, so unless you enjoy crowds of people, long waits, and much congestion, you may have a more relaxing time avoiding the last two weeks of October. Plan ahead if you want to stay in the city at any time…it’s a popular year-round tourist destination. Lodging choices include historic hotels, B&Bs, and plenty of VRBOs, and we’d recommend staying three days, simply because there’s so much you’ll want to experience.
For those with more time, within thirty miles of Salem are other fascinating historic communities including Gloucester, famed for its fishing industry and Old Man of the Sea statue; Ipswich, site of dozens of 17th and 18th century homes, and Newburyport, a quaint historic fishing seaport.
For area info, visit Destination Salem at www.salem.org, northofboston.org or visitma.com.
