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By Jim Peterson
Wine Enthusiast & Instagram Wine Influencer
When I first began to explore wine on a wide scale, I could not really understand why some people liked Chardonnay. This was mainly because the Chardonnay wines I had tried were overly oaked with buttery notes, and they were completely unappealing to me. The wines seemed thick, heavy, and almost syrup-like in a way. Then I was introduced to Chablis from the Burgundy wine region in France, and it was like a wine epiphany of sorts. Whoa whoa whoa! This was Chardonnay? Suddenly my whole perspective on Chardonnay was changed. Years later it turns out that my story is not unlike so many other experiences of wine lovers across the world. What is it about Chablis that changes so many peoples’ minds about Chardonnay?
CHABLIS BASICS TO KNOW
There is a uniqueness about Chablis that starts with its location. Although it is considered to be a white Burgundy, Chablis (the village and region) is about 73 miles to the northwest of Beaune. It is quite separated from what you might consider the main part of Burgundy, but the locals will tell you that Chablis is the “Gateway to Burgundy.” Despite the world renown of these wines, solely comprised of the Chardonnay grape, the village of Chablis only has about 2,500 residents. It is really kind of amazing when you think about it. Everything in this small village basically revolves around the wines of Chablis. And I really love these wines.
There are four appellations you will see on the labels of Chablis wines: Petit Chablis, Chablis (or Chablis Villages), Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. These designations matter because there are distinct differences in both quality and price. That is not to say you should avoid any of them, but it helps you understand why certain Chablis wines may be priced differently. The Petit Chablis wines represent a fresher style that is very open and ready to drink. Within the Chablis Villages you can find some tremendous values with wines that have a little more body but a clarity of taste that melds the grape characteristic with the terroir of Chablis to create delightful wines. This is probably where I should point out that many Chablis wines are vinified in stainless steel tanks without the use of oak. This lack of oak is probably the main reason wines from Chablis, with their fresher and cleaner style of Chardonnay, end up changing so many minds like they did for me.
As with most French wine regions, Chablis has further distinctions of quality. There are 17 main Premier Cru designations in Chablis. These are smaller areas within Chablis where the terroir has historically produced finer wines. I will not list them all here, but I will point out that I have a great fondness for Premier Cru wines from Fourchaume. Fourchame is on the same side of the river as, and sort of right next to, the seven Grand Cru plots. As for the Grand Cru, it is hard to go wrong with any of them, but for some reason the wines of Les Clos have always struck me as the top tier of the Chablis Grand Cru selections.
PRO TIP: The Burgundy classifications for Premier Cru and Grand Cru (theoretically the top wines) are solely based on the actual plots where the grapes are grown. This is true for the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines in the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune (the main parts of Burgundy), and it is true for Chablis as well. This is important because the designation has nothing to do with the producer of the wines. These designations highlight the potential of the grapes grown on these plots. This is why I have joked for many years that “Burgundy is a minefield.” I believe it is important (and prudent) to know a little bit about the Premier Cru or Grand Cru producer before you spend the money on these typically higher priced wines. Let the buyer beware!
WHAT MAKES CHABLIS SO SPECIAL?
There are a few defining characteristics about Chablis and the methods of production that contribute to the uniqueness of their wines. First, it starts with the climate in general. Chablis is simply a cool climate region for Chardonnay. The cooler climate tends to make the wines a bit higher in acidity – what you might consider to be the crispness of the wine. Secondly, the soil or terroir of Chablis has a large amount of limestone. This land was covered by ocean millions of years ago, and the resulting “Kimmeridgian limestone” gives Chablis its rather unique flinty and mineral characteristic for a Chardonnay wine. It simply creates a different experience in the glass.
Finally, as I already pointed out, most of the Chablis wines are vinified in stainless steel tanks. This aspect cannot be underestimated. When oak is used, as some of the Premier Cru and Grand Cru producers will do, it is very minimal. This allows the true characteristic of the Chardonnay grape to come through in the wine without any overt manipulation. For this reason, what you often get in the wines of Chablis is the pure essence of the Chardonnay grape. Once tasted, the freshness and preciseness of the Chablis wines become hard to resist.
CHABLIS FOOD PAIRINGS
Chablis can be very versatile when pairing foods. There are some classic pairings like raw oysters or pan seared white fish that can be quite appealing. I have also enjoyed Chablis with crab cakes and shrimp cocktail. If you prefer to serve your white wine with some type of appetizer, the Chablis will pair beautifully with flavorful cheeses that are not overly strong. Of course, there is nothing wrong with just sipping a Chablis by itself as a simple pleasure. Hey, I will even help you with that!
THE CHABLIS CHALLENGE
If you are one of those wine lovers convinced that Chardonnay is not for you, I urge you to find a nice Chablis and put your palate to the test. Like so many others I hope you will find the uniqueness of the Chablis wines are like no other Chardonnay you have tasted. They do it their own way, and they are proud of the Chablis distinctiveness. I know it changed my mind, and I am certain it can change yours too. And if you already love Chardonnay, but have not yet tried Chablis? Now is the time!
CHABLIS RECOMMENDATIONS
Here are a few of my favored Chablis producers:
Domaine William Fèvre – a wide ranging portfolio for every budget.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard – my first Chablis discovery.
Drouhin-Vaudon – enjoyable wines from a Burgundy legend.
Les Hauts de Milly – an excellent producer with affordable wines.
- Moreau & Fils – a nice lineup to meet every price range.
Domaine Raveneau – top tier with prices to show for it.
Follow Jim on Instagram, @tx_wine_pilot, for more wine tips and reviews.
Biography:
Jim Peterson is a retired U.S. Air Force officer who mainly flew the A-10 fighter jet. He has ties to the wine business going back over 20 years and is an avid wine collector. His extensive wine knowledge includes travel to many wine regions while living in Europe, many tastings led by Master Sommeliers, and ongoing personal wine exploration and self-study. He has cultivated a large following on his Instagram account, @tx_wine_pilot, tasting and reporting on wines from vintage to value. He now works in marketing and resides in San Antonio, Texas.
