Texan Magazine
By Jim Peterson
Wine Writer, Wine Collector & Instagram Wine Influencer
Tucked away in the rolling hills of upstate New York, the Finger Lakes Wine Region has quietly become one of America’s most exciting and distinctive wine destinations. Carved by ancient glaciers, the eleven deep, slender lakes create a cool-climate paradise where world-class Rieslings, elegant red wines, and new styles of Chardonnay and sparkling wines are gaining notice among wine enthusiasts. What began decades ago as a handful of pioneering wineries has blossomed into nearly 150 producers crafting expressive, terroir-driven wines that will both surprise and please your palate.
During my recent visit I experienced stunning lake views, innovative winemaking, and memorable wines. This is a wine region that is refreshingly unpretentious but has an undeniable appeal for pretty much every kind of wine lover, whether you’re a casual sipper or a serious collector. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Finger Lakes’ signature grape: Riesling.
THE RISE OF RIESLING
The Finger Lakes wine region (now referred to as FLX by the wine world) has its roots from around 1830 when the first plantings of native American grapes found success. An early commercial winery gained renown for their sparkling wines in the late 1800s, but prohibition devastated the local industry. The recovery of the FLX wine industry began in the 1950s and 1960s with Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant, and Charles Fournier, a French winemaker from the Champagne region.
The greatest impact of these two pioneers was the introduction of European grapes (Vitus vinifera), proving they could survive the cold-climate nature of FLX. Riesling, first planted in 1958, eventually became the dominant grape after Dr. Frank’s Riesling wines were a great success with their bright acidity, floral aromas, and unique mineral characteristics. Legislation passed in the 1970s made it easier for small producers to open boutique wineries, and the race was on. That leads us straight to another pioneering winemaker for the region: Hermann J. Wiemer.
HERMANN J. WIEMER VINEYARDS
Hermann Wiemer comes from a winemaking family in Bernkastel, a village in the Mosel River region of Germany. He moved to upstate NY in the late 1960s and eventually purchased a former soybean farm on Seneca Lake and began hand-grafting and planting European vines. His first wine release was in 1979, and his high-quality Riesling further helped establish FLX as a serious wine region. For clarification, the German pronunciation is “Vee-muhr” but most everyone has used the Americanized “Wee-mer” from the start.
The winery team had me from the moment I sat down at my tasting, as they started by saying, “We understand you like bubbles.” Hah! I had never tasted their sparkling wines, so that was intriguing. They served me four exceptional Rieslings, and the German style influence was evident. The HJW Riesling (grown on the farm) was the standout for me. I greatly enjoyed tasting the lineup of Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Blaufränkisch, and Cabernet Franc. The HJW Chardonnay and the Magdelena Vineyard Cabernet Franc both found a spot in my suitcase.
BOUNDARY BREAKS VINEYARD
Not all the FLX innovators were European, so let me introduce you to the founder of Boundary Breaks Vineyard, Bruce Murray. He purchased his farm on the East side of Seneca Lake in 2008 with a vision to make high-quality Riesling. There were no vineyards on the farm, so he began the hard work of site preparation and vineyard development. Rather than have his own winery production facility, he delivers his grapes to select wineries that oversee the winemaking for him. His first vintage of his new Riesling was 2011. The name “Boundary Breaks” comes from the two deep gorges (breaks) forged by glaciers that form the northern and southern boundaries of the property.
Touring the vineyards with the vineyard manager, Kees Stapel, was amazing. I saw the precision and detail they emphasize with their farming. Kees states their philosophy simply, “Great wine is made in the vineyard.” In that respect, vintages of the Riesling Dry No. 239 have made Top 100 lists from both Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator. A visit to their tasting room offers spectacular views and spectacular wines. The Rieslings were most memorable for me, especially the No. 239 and the Ice Wine.
FORGE CELLARS
Forge Cellars, also on the east side of Seneca Lake, is a fascinating wine project. It’s the partnership between an American, Rick Rainey, and a French Rhône Valley winemaker, Louis Barruol. I had an extensive conversation with Rick as we tasted his wines. Interestingly, every single wine they make is from a single site. As Rick says, “We were very keen on vineyard and place. We are site makers, not varietal makers. Our job is to tell the story of the neighborhood.” To back this up, all the wines are made similarly to ensure each maintains its unique singular expression.
I especially enjoyed the estate owned Bellows Vineyard Dry Riesling, which struck me as being in the style of a dry Riesling from Alsace, France. The Caywood Vineyard Chardonnay bowled me over with its subtle oak and elegant minerality. It was easy to see why my good wine friends insisted Forge Cellars was a must-visit for this trip. The wines are stellar.
DOMAINE LESEURRE
The French-born husband and wife team of Céline & Sébastien LeSeurre released the first vintage of Domaine LeSeurre in 2012. Sébastien is a 6th generation winemaker from the Aube region in Champagne. The couple met at a New Zealand winery, but as they continued to work various wine regions, they decided to plant roots on Keuka Lake in FLX. My tasting started with the 2023 Riesling Terroir d’Excellence. This is from 50-year-old vines, vinified in 100% stainless steel. It reminded me of a German Rheinhessen Riesling – beautifully dry with hints of petrol on the nose, while the palate had distinct citrus and stone fruit components with a lively acidity.
The rest of the lineup was fantastic too – with more Rieslings, Gewurtztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Lemberger (aka Blaufränkisch), Cabernet Franc, and even a Bordeaux blend. I couldn’t resist trying their 2012 Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine, which Sébastien aged on the lees for seven years. His Champagne roots made their imprint with every sip. Domaine LeSeurre is a must-visit (and a must-taste) in FLX. With beautiful views and crazy good wines, this winery deserves your attention.
APOLLO’S PRAISE
For such a young winery, Apollo’s Praise already has a devoted “cult following” amongst wine lovers. It’s the brainchild of husband-and-wife local winemakers Kelby Russell and Julia Hoyle. They started their own project with a 2023 vintage release after they purchased the Lahoma Vineyard site near the southern end of Seneca Lake. They run tastings out of a rustic old barn on the property, and that makes for a unique experience.
The stylistic differences between Kelby and Julia show in the various wines where Kelby focuses on single grape / single block wines, while Julia prefers to blend various blocks to find the perfect balance in her wines. The Rieslings and Chardonnay were super interesting, and the reds were bright and juicy as I would expect from a cooler climate. I brought home the 2025 Dry Riesling, along with the 2025 Nutt Road Vineyard Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc. Both were insanely delicious.
WEIS VINEYARD
Peter Weis grew up in the Zell Mosel region of Germany. He met his wife Ashlee while working in FLX. They eventually started Weis Vineyards with the first vintage in 2017. The Weis Rieslings have a definite Mosel influence, so they were appealing to me. The reds surprised me with rather overt tannins given the cool climate. The Saperavi red wine I tasted greatly benefited from having been opened the day prior, and a taste from a newly opened bottle confirmed the red wines do indeed need to breathe and open up to bring out the fruit. The bustling tasting room has a “choose four” tasting menu, so my advice is to lean into the Riesling and white wine selections while you enjoy the pretty view of Keuka Lake.
TIPS FOR VISITING FLX
The FLX region is easily accessible by flying into Rochester and renting a car. The town of Geneva, on the northern tip of Seneca Lake, is a great place to stay. There are many options for lodging, and some great dining options too. While you can make appointments for wineries, most of the tasting rooms are open daily and will happily accommodate walk-ins if you prefer to be spontaneous. I had superb fine dining experiences at Port’s Cafe and FLX Table in Geneva. My favorite lunch spot was the bakery and deli at Tabora Vineyards, but if you are in the Kueka Lake area then you owe it to yourself to “get Switzed” at the The Switzerland Inn.
The Finger Lakes Wine Region is one of the most compelling and approachable wine destinations in America. This is where cool-climate finesse meets genuine hospitality. The wines of FLX consistently deliver memorable bottles that overdeliver on quality and character, and there is something for every palate. When it comes to FLX wines, the future of American wine is tasting better than ever. Cheers!
Follow Jim on Instagram, @tx_wine_pilot, for more wine tips and reviews.
Biography:
Jim Peterson is a retired U.S. Air Force officer who mainly flew the A-10 fighter jet. He has ties to the wine business going back over 25 years, has visited many wine regions, tasted the world’s top wines, and is an avid wine collector. His business, The Texas Wine Pilot, offers customized in-home wine tastings, corporate wine tastings, executive wine training, a wine concierge service, and wine collecting consultations. Visit txwinepilot.com or email him at jim@txwinepilot.com for more information.
