Texan Magazine
By Jim Peterson
Wine Enthusiast & Instagram Wine Influencer
Living in Europe twice offered many opportunities to explore the often overlooked areas of Europe. It’s common for first-time visitors to hit the highlights of the renowned cities like Paris and Rome, and they have certainly earned their enduring appeal. When you live there, and everything is so relatively close, it makes it so much easier to explore some of the lesser known, yet often more breathtaking areas of Europe.
The Loire Valley, merely two hours southeast of Paris, is one such area. The Loire River Valley stretches from Orleans to the Atlantic Ocean. It is often called the “Valley of a Thousand Châteaux” because there are so many of them. Its popularity with the French aristocracy began in the early 1400s when King Charles VII moved his court there to escape the British occupation of Paris during the Hundred Years’ War. This lasted until Joan of Arc led the French troops to victory in the Loire Valley. After that, the mild climate and good hunting made it a popular place to build “hunting lodges” where the wealthy and royals could retreat for relaxation.
And who can relax without wine? With that, the Loire Valley developed its own wine subculture with the many villages creating their unique styles of wine along the way.
FAVORITE APPELLATIONS
The Loire Valley stretches 170 miles and has about 87 appellations where a variety of grapes like Melon de Bourgogne, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Gamay (among others) are used to make very distinctive wines highlighting the terroir of each location. As can happen with some French wines, the grapes used in the wines are often hard to discern because we become so accustomed to the appellation name. There is no way to cover all the appellations, so let me focus on a few of my favorites.
SANCERRE – If you shy away from Sauvignon Blanc wines because you have only tasted the tart, sometimes mouth-puckering wines from New Zealand, then I encourage you to try a white wine from Sancerre. The white wines are 100% Sauvignon Blanc and have an elegance about them I find impossible to resist. You can still get the flavors of green apple or pineapple, but there is a mineral characteristic imparted from the limestone soils that puts it all in balance. The wines are crisp and dry, and this makes them perfect to refresh you on a summer day or to sip while enjoying your favorite seafood. There are also smaller quantities of Sancerre red and rosé wines made from Pinot Noir, and I highly encourage you to try these if you happen to see them on the shelf.
POUILLY-FUMÉ – Here is another appellation where Sauvignon Blanc rules the day. The name may strike a chord because Robert Mondavi used the “Fumé” part of this to market his California Sauvignon Blanc as Fumé Blanc. The best Pouilly-Fumé wines can easily compete with the wines of Sancerre. In fact, the best Sauvignon Blanc I have ever tasted was an aged Didier Dagueneau Silex Pouilly-Fumé. It’s what many (including myself) consider to be the best Sauvignon Blanc made in the entire world.
CHINON – The Chinon (shee-naan) wines are the hearty red wines of the Loire Valley. They are made from the Cabernet Franc grape, which is typically a blending grape with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in Bordeaux blends. These celebrated red wines are usually inky dark in color with black fruit and spice flavors often tinged with a bell pepper aroma and flavor that adds to its uniqueness. Even better, they are very food and wallet friendly. If you are used to drinking big, bold California wines, try surprising your palate with a Chinon red.
VOUVRAY – The white wines of Vouvray are made from the Chenin Blanc grape. The styles can range from dry to sweet depending on the producer, so it is worth asking about these wines before buying. I prefer the dryer style which can offer a crisp acidity with aromas and flavors of white fruits like pear and apple along with hints of honeysuckle. This is a perfect aperitif or to serve with a goat cheese laced salad.
SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY – Here in Texas, finding a wine from this tiny appellation always seems to be a bit of a scavenger hunt. Only red wine production is allowed, and all wines must be at least 85% Cabernet Franc. Small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot d’Aunis are allowed to make up the rest (if they are used at all.) All I can say is these wines are fantastic if you can find them. I grab one every time I see it.
MUSCADET-SÈVRE-ET-MAINE – The white wines of Muscadet are made solely from the Melon de Bourgogne grape. Because of the appellation name, people often confuse these wines with those from the Muscat grape, but there is no similarity whatsoever. These wines are quite dry with aromas and flavors highlighted by a citrus backbone often finishing with a light salinity that leaves you thirsting for more. This makes it the perfect match to a beurre blanc sauce over grilled or pan seared white fish. Delicious.
LOIRE VALLEY TRAVEL NOTES
The Loire Valley is an amazing travel destination. The natural beauty of the river valley only accentuates the experience of the wines, and of course there is nothing like the amazing array of châteaux you can visit. We stayed in a small château turned Bed & Breakfast, Château Des Ormeaux, near the town of Amboise. Highlights of our trip included the iconic Chambord Castle, the largest of the châteaux in the Loire. Construction began in 1519, originally intended as a hunting lodge for King Francis I. That fact is easily forgotten when you see the grandeur of the French Renaissance architecture and the scale of the place. It’s truly amazing.
The other must-visit is Château de Chenonceau which bridges the Cher River with beautiful arches to support the structure. The history here is even more intriguing because there are competing gardens on either side of the entrance. One side was planted by the mistress of King Henry II while he housed her there. After he died in 1559, his widow Catherine de’ Medici basically kicked her out and made it her permanent residence. She then designed a more magnificent garden on the opposite side to overshadow the first.
Whether you choose to experience the Loire Valley through its wines you find here in the United States, or you decide to make it part of a European travel adventure, you cannot go wrong.
Between the wines, the historical relevance, the natural beauty, and the opportunity to explore and experience so many facets of French culture, there is no other place quite like it.
PRODUCER RECOMMENDATIONS
Here are a few of my favorite Loire Valley producers you can typically find in Texas.
Lucien Crochet, Sancerre – The red, white, and rosé are all brilliant wines.
Daniel Chotard, Sancerre – Very pretty Sancerre.
Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Chinon – The red Chinon is magnificent, but don’t pass on the others.
Château Soucherie, Anjou – I did not mention Anjou wines, but these are incredible.
Éric Chevalier, Pays Nantoc – makes a variety of delicious and affordable Loire Valley wines.
Domaine Sérol, Côte Roannaise – The “Turbullent” sparkling Gamay rosé is a fan favorite.
Follow Jim on Instagram, @tx_wine_pilot, for more wine tips and reviews.
Biography:
Jim Peterson is a retired U.S. Air Force officer who mainly flew the A-10 fighter jet. He has ties to the wine business going back over 20 years and is an avid wine collector. His extensive wine knowledge includes travel to many wine regions while living in Europe, many tastings led by Master Sommeliers, and ongoing personal wine exploration and self-study. He has cultivated a large following on his Instagram account, @tx_wine_pilot, tasting and reporting on wines from vintage to value. He now works in marketing and resides in San Antonio, Texas.
