Texan Magazine
By Jim Peterson
Wine Enthusiast & Instagram Wine Influencer
Spring is a time of renewal, with the first blooms unfurling and the trees restoring their greenery. In the world of wine, dormant vineyards awaken to begin the slow evolution towards what will become the hallmarks of another unique vintage. The refreshing nature of longer days and milder temperatures call for an equally refreshing wine that complements that vibrant, rejuvenating aura of spring. There is nothing like a great rosé, with its versatile and charming profile, to set the tone for the joyous and carefree moments in this time of year.
Rosé wine, from a public perception standpoint, has undergone a renaissance over the last several years. Where wine stores or supermarkets used to devote a small corner spot to rosé, there are now entire sections to explore. Winemakers across the world have become more adventurous with rosé too. The traditional French regions have always led the way on rosé, but we now see more styles of rosé popping up across the world of wine. When I think of rosé wine, though, my mind gravitates to the standard-setting French. That standard was set in the region of Provence where the Phoenicians first planted grapes in France about 2,600 years ago.
PROVENCE
Did you know the history of winemaking in France began in Provence? The early wines were nearly all rosé because the method to extract and use the red skin color for wines did not exist.
While many other regions primarily focus on either red or white wine, the Provence region has always been dominated by rosé. It is hard to imagine another place where such a large production of rosé is so consistently outstanding.
There are four main grapes used in the Provençal rosé: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. The variety of rosé produced in Provence, whether it is from a single grape or any combination of blends, is staggering. Roughly half of the wine produced in Provence is rosé, and about half of the rosé consumed in the United States is from Provence. That is quite a bit of rosé!
What makes the rosé from Provence so appealing? The first thing to know about the classic Provence rosé is that there is a crisp and dry aspect to it, accompanied by underlying red fruit characteristics (like strawberry or raspberry), that make it very refreshing. You may hear them referred to as high acid wines. Acidity in wine is what makes your mouth water. The versatile wines of Provence will do just that. They make a great aperitif before a meal. You can open them when hanging out by the pool, chatting with a friend, or just sitting outside in the nice spring weather.
Interestingly, there are six official colors of Provence rosé. They are Mandarin, Mango, Melon, Peach, Pomelo, and Red Currant. Just keep in mind these are strictly marketing descriptors and have nothing to do with flavors or grapes. But they are useful in highlighting the many shades of pink wines you might see. Pay closer attention to this the next time you’re perusing the rosé section. Maybe pick up differently shaded wines to try side by side and see how the flavors might vary by color. Some typical flavors you might recognize are strawberry, raspberry, red apple, or watermelon. I have even tasted Jolly Rancher hard candy flavors. You just never know what you’ll discover.
BANDOL
Over the years I’ve been asked where my favorite rosé is made. I always have a two-part answer. The first part is to say I generally prefer rosé from Provence, and the second part is that within Provence my absolute favorites are the wines from the Bandol region. Bandol wine history dates to the Roman Empire, but the vines were wiped out by the great phylloxera epidemic in the 1870s (a nasty aphid that eats vine roots). The Bandol producers used the subsequent revival to refine their winemaking by replanting only those grapes best suited to their terroir. Mourvèdre became the “king grape” of Bandol, and the foundation that allows Bandol rosé the ability to age for many years (if you can resist opening them).
The Bandol region is sort of shaped like a giant natural amphitheater where the south-facing vineyards, abundant sunlight, and the right combination of the nearby Mediterranean Sea and the Mistral winds create the perfect combination of growing conditions for their chosen grapes. Bandol rosé is spectacular and a must-try when exploring the world of rosé. I have two favorite Bandol rosés: Château Pradeaux and Domaine Tempier. It’s not an exaggeration to say these are two of the best rosé wines in the world.
TAVEL (TAH-VL)
The Tavel appellation is unique because it is the only one where 100% of the wines made there are rosé. Tavel is located on the right bank of the southern Rhône Valley in France. Nine grape varieties are allowed in Tavel, but no single grape can constitute more than 60% of a Tavel rosé. This forces the winemakers to choose their blends wisely. Tavel wines are richly colored and typically appear darker than most other rosés. I enjoy the complex layers of flavors that unroll across the palate.
There is an elegance to Tavel wines that is incredibly hard to resist. Tavel wines are best suited to taste with food. The winemakers state flatly it is a gastronomic wine. If you are unsure about opening a rosé with dinner, try it with a simple charcuterie board of meat, cheese, and fresh bread. Many wine professionals have made the case that Tavel produces the best rosé in the world. As one Tavel winemaker put it, “It’s not rosé – it’s Tavel.” They truly are exceptional. While I favor Bandol, I would never turn down a chance to try a Tavel rosé. They can be rather scarce here, so grab one to try if you see “Tavel” on the label.
ROSÉ IN THE UNITED STATES
Rosé is produced across the United States, but I really want to focus on two specific areas: California and Willamette Valley in Oregon. The winemakers in California offer a fantastic array of delicious rosé wines. California rosé styles range from the Provence influenced Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre to those made with Pinot Noir or Merlot. California has multiple regions to explore for rosé wines. A few of my favorites from California are the Paradigm Rosé of Merlot, Sinegal Estate Grenache Rosé, DuMOL Rosé (Pinot Noir), and the Three Sticks Casteñada Rosé (Rhône Valley grapes like Grenache and Syrah).
When it comes to Oregon, almost all the rosés I have tried have been 100% Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley. Erich Berg of Ricochet Wines bucks that trend completely with his Confluence Rosé. Each year he creates a “field blend” where the percentages of Syrah, Malbec, and Viognier change based on the yield of the harvest. I was impressed when I tasted it during my visit last year. As for the more traditional Oregon Pinot Noir rosé, my two favorites include the Big Table Farm Laughing Pig Rosé and the Hazelfern Rosé.
WILDCARD ROSÉS
Over the years there have been some rosés I have quickly developed wine crushes on after tasting them. Like most crushes, they can quickly fade. Still, I have found a few where my crush quickly reappears with a single sip. Here are four rosés you should try if you spot them “in the wild” while shopping or dining:
Clos Cibonne Tibouren Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France. Made from the Tibouren grape, this is amazing wine.
Couly-Doutheil Chinon Rosé, Loire Valley, France. This Cabernet Franc rosé is rich and luxurious.
Il Monticello Serasuolo, Liguria di Levante Rosato, Italy. This delicious wine is made from the Ciliegiolo grape, which happens to be my favorite grape to pronounce.
Crazy Creatures Rosé, Niederösterreich, Austria. It has fun labels with different “crazy creatures” and it’s crazy good too!
FINAL THOUGHTS
When looking for fun, unique, or new wines to try, I always encourage people to visit wine stores instead of grocery stores. If you can find a wine store or a wine bar with knowledgeable staff, you are far more likely to take home something you are sure to enjoy. Exploring different wines with people who know the wines well is one of the best ways to expand your palate. The wide world of rosé wines offers you an endless quest. Have fun with it!
Follow Jim on Instagram, @tx_wine_pilot, for more wine tips and reviews.
Biography:
Jim Peterson is a retired U.S. Air Force officer who mainly flew the A-10 fighter jet. He has ties to the wine business going back over 25 years, has visited many wine regions, tasted the world’s top wines, and is an avid wine collector. His new business, The Texas Wine Pilot, offers customized in-home wine tastings and wine collecting consultations in the San Antonio and South Texas area. Visit txwinepilot.com or email him at jim@txwinepilot.com to book your tasting or consult. He has also cultivated a large following on his Instagram account, @tx_wine_pilot.
