Texan Magazine
By Jim Peterson
Wine Writer, Wine Collector & Instagram Wine Influencer
As spring reveals its gentle warmth, flowers bud, and greenery starts to emerge again, this is the time to shake off the heavier reds of winter and open bottles that match the season’s fresh, vibrant energy. Let’s explore some under-the-radar wines that are light, lively, and full of personality. These wines capture the optimism of Spring renewal without the crazy prices or mass production. From crisp, floral whites from lesser-known corners of Europe to bright, chillable reds, these are wines you can bring to picnics, casual family dinners, or simply pop and pour while relaxing at home.
FIRST STOP: MENETOU-SALON, LOIRE VALLEY
Two easily recognizable regions within the Loire Valley for Sauvignon Blanc are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumè. I’ve said it before, but my favorite style of pure Sauvignon Blanc is from the Loire Valley. The Kimmeridgian limestone soil (ancient seabed) adds a delicate mineral element that creates an elegant expression that’s irresistible to me. Menetou-Salon is the “other” appellation in the Loire Valley where Sauvignon Blanc rules. It’s maybe one-fifth the size of Sancerre, and that’s mainly why we see fewer Menetou-Salon wines in America. When you can find them, though, the quality for the price (usually in the $20-$25 range) is a wine lover’s dream.
Like its neighbors, Menetou-Salon whites are typically crisp and aromatic, with dominant citrus elements like grapefruit and lemon. They pair perfectly with spring salads, raw oysters, fish tacos, or broiled white fish. Just as in Sancerre, the red wines and rosè are made from Pinot Noir. These are elegant and charming, displaying red fruit flavors like cherry and raspberry. A bit harder to find, but always worth trying!
SECOND STOP: SAVOIE, FRANCE
The Savoie wine region is in eastern France, nestled in the Alpine foothills near the Swiss and Italian borders. Savoie is best known for the fascinating white wines made from the Jacquère grape. Jacquère is the most widely planted grape in Savoie, accounting for approximately 50% of the region’s vineyards. These white wines are typically dry and light-bodied, featuring crisp notes of green apple, lemon and grapefruit, along with some white floral aspects. One defining feature is a “flinty” nature that reflects the Alpine origin. What makes them great for spring is the naturally low alcohol content, as they rarely exceed 12% Alcohol by Volume (ABV). These are wines to open right away so the lively character they project can be enjoyed with your favorite light spring dishes.
THIRD STOP: AUSTRIA FOR GRÜNER VELTLINER
There are some very cool wines coming out of Austria. The primary white grape in Austria, Grüner Veltliner, is well suited for springtime sipping. Grüner Veltliner is known for its high acidity (or crispness) with zesty citrus notes of lemon, lime, and grapefruit, and often shows hints of white pepper. These wines are usually affordable. My wine crowd in San Antonio is always on the lookout for the one-liter bottle of “Grrrr” Grüner Veltliner that is under $20 and quite the crowd pleaser. These are fun white wines to keep on hand to pair with salads, artichokes, white fish, or soft goat cheeses.
FOURTH STOP: CANARY ISLANDS, SPAIN
The wines from the Spain’s Canary Islands have historically been very difficult to find. It wasn’t too many years ago when my wine friends and I went kind of crazy over the first ones we tried. They disappeared off the shelves rather quickly, and since then we have remained on the lookout for both the red and rosé made from the native Listan Negro grape. Listan Negro produces wines that reflect the archipelago’s unique volcanic terroir, particularly from the islands of Lanzarote and Tenerife. The Saharan wind conditions there are brutal, so they have engineered ways to protect the vines. In Lanzarote, the vines are planted in deep, hollowed-out pits called hoyos, often surrounded by semi-circular stone walls for further protection. Tenerife wineries have a method unique to the island where vines are braided together into long, snakelike “tresses” that can reach up to ten meters in length.
The ingenuity is quite amazing and helps you appreciate the wines more just knowing what it took to produce them. Most of the red wines go through the same carbonic maceration technique used in Beaujolais, and this creates light-bodied, highly aromatic wines that are loaded with fruit. With notes of strawberry, banana, and delicate spice, Canary Island reds match the mood for spring. The rosés are also fantastic. They can have aromas of wild strawberries, red currant, or pomegranate, along with flavors of peach, guava, or sometimes watermelon. They are delectable!
FIFTH STOP: UNITED STATES FOR TROUSSEAU
The Trousseau grape originated in the Jura wine region in France. Don’t feel bad if you have never tasted Jura wines. Only small quantities are imported into the US. The Trousseau grape, though, did get the attention of adventurous producers in Oregon and California. Several wineries are producing some tasty Trousseau wines. Wines made from Trousseau usually have aromas and flavors of tart red fruits like cranberry, cherry, and raspberry, along with a lower ABV that makes for a terrific spring wine.
In my travels I have met with a few producers in both Sonoma County (California) and the Willamette Valley (Oregon) making some great Trousseau. My favorite Trousseau is the Cole Ranch Trousseau from Rootdown Wines in Sonoma. That wine enthralls me every time I open one. During my Oregon trip in 2024, I happily discovered the Hazelfern Trousseau at a restaurant. I then discovered that Eyrie Vineyards had planted Trousseau many years before, and I ended up tasting their first vintage from 2014. That was fascinating because they admittedly weren’t quite sure what to do with the grape (so that wine was never released). They have since perfected it. On that trip, it was an incredible coincidence that I brought a Rootdown Trousseau with me, so the winemakers from Hazelfern and Eyrie got to taste it on the same day. Having a group of Trousseau lovers embrace it was a memorable wine moment for me.
WHERE TO FIND THESE WINES
It’s not too difficult to find Menetou-Salon or Austrian Grüner Veltliner in the “big box” stores like Total Wine and Spec’s. For the lesser known “geek” wines like Savoie, Canary Islands, and Trousseau, you may have better luck with smaller wine shops like Art of Cellaring (which usually has the Grrrr) or Geraldine’s Natural Wine Shop in San Antonio. One spring wine I didn’t mention before but always look forward to is the Bisson Ciliegiolo red wine from the Ligurian Coast of Italy – an amazingly fun wine I’ve been enjoying for years. I just acquired the new 2024 vintage from Alamo City Wine Merchants because the proprietor knows my tastes and immediately texted me when it became available.
It is incredibly helpful to build relationships with your local wine merchants so they will alert you to wines you absolutely should try, and it creates opportunities to fulfill special orders tailored to your tastes. That is one of the best ways to discover unique wines that excite the palate. It is the best aspect when it comes to the wide world of wine. What better way to welcome spring’s joyful arrival than sipping a wine that reminds you why the hunt for these hidden gems is always worth it? It may take a little extra effort, but the result is so much fun!
Follow Jim on Instagram, @tx_wine_pilot, for more wine tips and reviews.
Biography:
Jim Peterson is a retired U.S. Air Force officer who mainly flew the A-10 fighter jet. He has ties to the wine business going back over 25 years, has visited many wine regions, tasted the world’s top wines, and is an avid wine collector. His business, The Texas Wine Pilot, offers customized in-home wine tastings, corporate wine tastings, executive wine training, a wine concierge service, and wine collecting consultations. Visit txwinepilot.com or email him at jim@txwinepilot.com for more information.
