Looking At Wine Through Rosé Colored Glasses

Female hand with glass of wine. Cozy pier on the coast of the lake Tegernsee. Alpine mountains in Bavaria (Bayern). Mountain view, beautiful landscape in Germany. Adventure in Europe (travel photo).

By Jim Peterson
Wine Enthusiast & Instagram Wine Influencer

With apologies to Gertrude Stein, a rosé is not a rosé is not a rosé. You may recall it was Gertrude Stein who delivered that famous poetic line, “A rose is a rose is a rose.” Her general meaning was that when all is said and done, a thing is what it is. Luckily for us wine lovers, it’s impossible to exhaust the infinite variations that go into creating wine. This is especially true of rosé; the delightful pink wine so many of us love to sip. It’s not hard to understand why the spring and summer seasons appeal to many as the ideal time to pop open a rosé. They just seem to go together. Looking back at my wine experience, it’s funny to me that my initial introduction to wine back in the mid-1980s was Sutter Home White Zinfandel.

I often wonder how many other serious wine enthusiasts started with the “sweet pink wine” that was nearly ubiquitous back then? The downside of that craze was that rosé (or just pink wine in general) often became associated with that sweet flavor profile for a lot of people. The reality is much different.

I would like to introduce you to some of the most popular rosé wine regions and help you discover which regions might be the most intriguing for you to try. It’s not an exaggeration to say that rosé wine, from a public perception standpoint, has undergone a renaissance over the last several years. Where wine stores used to devote a small corner spot to rosé, there are now entire sections to explore. Winemakers across the world have become much more adventurous with rosé too. The traditional French regions have always led the way on rosé, but we now see more styles of rosé popping up in Oregon, California, and upstate New York in the Finger Lakes region. To properly discuss rosé we must start with the standard-setting French, and that standard was set in the region of Provence where the Phoenicians first planted grapes in France about 2,600 years ago.

PROVENCE (PRUH-VAANS)
Did you know the history of winemaking in France began in Provence? The early wines were nearly all rosé because the method to extract and use the red skin color for wines did not exist. While many other regions primarily focus on either red or white wine, the Provence region has always been dominated by rosé. It’s hard to imagine another place where such a large production of rosé is so consistently outstanding.

There are four main grapes used in the Provençal rosé: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. The variety of rosé produced in Provence, whether it is from a single grape or any combination of blends, is staggering. Roughly half of the wine produced in Provence is rosé, and about half of the rosé consumed in the United States is from Provence. That is a LOT of rosé.

So, what makes the rosé from Provence so appealing? The first thing to know about the classic Provence rosé is that there is a crisp and dry aspect to it, accompanied by underlying red fruit characteristics (like strawberry or raspberry), that make it very refreshing. You may hear them referred to as high acid wines because of that tingly dryness. The wines of Provence make a great aperitif before a meal, or you can open them when hanging out by the pool or sitting outside in the nice spring or summer weather. They also go well with food!

A general rule of wine pairing is to pair wines with cuisine from the same region, but one of my favorite pairings is a nice rosé with steak tartare. For something more traditional try a Salmon Niçoise Salad, or do a quick search for Provençal Cuisine for some easy ideas.

When asked where my favorite rosé is made, I always have a two-part answer. The first part is to say I prefer rosé from Provence, and the second part is that within Provence my absolute favorites are the wines from the Bandol appellation. Bandol wine history dates to the Roman Empire, but the vines were wiped out by the great phylloxera epidemic in the 1870s (a nasty aphid that eats vine roots). The Bandol producers used the subsequent revival to refine their winemaking by replanting only those grapes best suited to their terroir. Mourvèdre became the “king grape” of Bandol, and the foundation that allows Bandol rosé the ability to age for many years (if you can resist opening them). The Bandol region is sort of shaped like a giant natural amphitheater where the south facing vineyards, abundant sunlight, and the right combination of the nearby Mediterranean Sea and the Mistral winds create the perfect combination of growing conditions for their chosen grapes. Bandol rosé is spectacular and a must-try when exploring the world of rosé.

TAVEL (TAH-VL)
The Tavel appellation is unique because it is the only one where 100% of the wines produced are rosé. Tavel is located on the right bank of the southern Rhône Valley in France. Only nine grape varieties are allowed in Tavel, and no single grape can constitute more than 60% of a Tavel rosé. This forces the winemakers to choose their blends wisely. Tavel wines are richly colored and typically appear darker than most other rosé. I enjoy the complex layers of flavors that unroll across the palate. There is an elegance to Tavel wines that is incredibly hard to resist. My experience suggests the Tavel wines are best suited to taste with food. The winemakers state flatly it is a gastronomic wine. If you are unsure about opening a rosé with dinner, try it with a simple charcuterie board of meat, cheese, and fresh bread.

Many wine professionals have made the case that Tavel produces the best rosé in the world. While I favor Bandol, I would never turn down a chance to try a Tavel rosé. As one Tavel winemaker put it, “It’s not rosé – it’s Tavel.” They truly are exceptional.

PRO TIP: Rosé wines, like most wines, can often benefit from breathing. I always suggest small pours of any wine as you sip through a bottle. Small pours (maybe three ounces at a time) give you room in the glass to swirl. Swirling wine allows oxygen to do its work on the wine and concentrates the aromas in the glass to help you experience the wine’s bouquet. Meanwhile, the wine in the bottle (or decanter) will continue to further “open up” along the way. In doing this you can often see many different aromas and flavors revealed as the wine goes through small transformations along the way. It’s a fascinating aspect of wine you do not want to miss.

UNITED STATES OF ROSÉ
Rosé is produced almost everywhere in some quantity, but here in the United States I really want to focus on three specific areas: California, Willamette Valley in Oregon, and the Finger Lakes region in New York.

The winemakers in California offer a fantastic array of delicious rosé wines. California rosé styles range from the Provence influenced Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre to those made with Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. The only caution with California for the 2020 vintage is that wildfires in Sonoma County and Napa really took their toll on some vineyards. It’s a little unclear what impact it will have on the 2020 rosé wine from those specific areas, but California is so big there are plenty of different regions to explore.

The same fire caution can be made for 2020 in Willamette Valley. The fires wreaked havoc there in certain pockets. From what I hear, though, the vintners are taking a cautious approach with their 2020 wines, and a careful winemaker never wants to intentionally release a bad wine that could damage their reputation. All the rosé I have tried from Oregon have been 100% Pinot Noir, so you can expect that too. I love Oregon Pinot Noir, and the Oregon Pinot Noir rosé rarely disappoints. A quick note on pronouncing Willamette; the “lamette” rhymes with dammit so you often hear the natives say, “It’s Willamette dammit” to teach people the correct pronunciation. It is hard to forget once you have heard it!

The Finger Lakes region in upstate New York has come a long way over the past several years, greatly improving the overall quality of wine produced there. Mostly known for their Rieslings, there are also some outstanding rosé wines produced there. The typical grapes used include Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Lemberger (which is another name for the Austrian grape Blaufränkisch), but there are also some obscure grapes that can be fascinating to try. I have visited the area around Seneca Lake many times, and the scenery can be just as beautiful as the wines if you have a chance to visit.

Many of the wines mentioned must sometimes be purchased directly through winery websites. For those of us who deal with the hot Texas weather, shipping is not always advisable as heat will kill wines. For a better chance of finding unique wines locally, I encourage people to visit wine stores instead of grocery stores. If you can find a wine store with knowledgeable staff, or a place where you can taste before you buy, you are far more likely to take home something you are sure to enjoy. Tasting different wines with people who know the wines well is one of the best ways to expand your palate and discover new wines. As I said up front, there are an endless number of different grapes, regions, and styles to be tried. Have fun with it!

RECOMMENDATIONS
Keep in mind the 2020 vintage of rosé is beginning to show up in stores. Unless a rosé is from an area suitable for aging like Bandol or Tavel, be wary of vintages older than two or three years you might see on the shelf. Most rosé is meant for early opening.

Here are some suggestions based on my own experience along with recommendations from trusted wine friends.

PROVENCE PRODUCERS
It is hard to find a completely unsatisfying Provence rosé. I will offer up a few of my favorites that I typically purchase with every new vintage. If you cannot find these, then just look for a wine that fits your price range and is from Provence. A fun fact to consider while you are browsing: There are six official colors of Provence rosé. It’s true! By order of consumer preference: Peach, Melon, Mango, Pomelo, Mandarin and Red Currant are the six main colors of the rosé wines made in Provence.

Château de Peyrassol, Château Saint-Pierre, AIX

Bandol – Château Pradeaux (my favorite rosé), La Bastide Blanche

 

TAVEL PRODUCERS

Tavel wines are not always the easiest to find, so grab one when you see it.

Château de Trinquevedel, Château de Segries, Domaine de la Morderée, Domaine Lafond

 

CALIFORNIA PRODUCERS

Banshee, Flowers, Macrostie, Clif Family, Lioco, Sophie James, Red Car Wine, Raft Wines

 

OREGON PRODUCERS

Big Table Farm, Domaine Divio, Hazelfern, Sokol Blosser, Gran Moraine, Bethel Heights, Domaine Serene, Arlyn

 

FINGER LAKES PRODUCERS

Lamoreaux Landing, Wagner, Sheldrake Point, Standing Point, Barnstormer

 

Follow Jim on Instagram, @tx_wine_pilot, for more wine tips and reviews.

Jim Peterson is a retired U.S. Air Force officer who mainly flew the A-10 fighter jet. He has ties to the wine business going back over 20 years and is an avid wine collector. His extensive wine knowledge includes travel to many wine regions while living in Europe, many tastings led by Master Sommeliers, and ongoing personal wine exploration and self-study. He has cultivated a large following on his Instagram account, @tx_wine_pilot, tasting and reporting on wines from vintage to value. He now works in marketing and resides in San Antonio, Texas.