Texan Magazine
By Jim Peterson
Wine Enthusiast & Instagram Wine Influencer
I was recently invited on a “press trip” to spend a few days with noted French winemaker, Gérard Bertrand. Each summer he hosts a Jazz Festival at the 5-star resort, Château l’Hospitalet. The resort sits just outside of Narbonne, France as you head south towards the Mediterranean Sea. Narbonne is sort of centrally located in the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region in southern France. This region in southwestern France stretches from the edge of the Southern Rhône Valley and Provence westward along the Mediterranean shore towards the Spanish border.
Since I was there already, it felt right to extend my stay and take a deeper dive into a region of France I had never visited. While I have tasted many wines from Languedoc-Roussillon region over the years, I knew there was more to learn. Plus, Languedoc-Roussillon remains unknown to many Americans. When a wine region has both great values and intriguing wines, it’s worth an in-depth exploration.
WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
Languedoc-Roussillon is France’s largest wine producing region. This is no doubt due to its vast size. There is a great diversity of terroir and there are many familiar grapes found across the region. The bolder, spicy red blends are often dominated by Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre (like the Rhône Valley), but I found that Carignan and Cinsault were often in the mix too. In the areas that favor Carignan and Cinsault, they often make fantastic 100% varietal wines from those grapes. These tend to be a bit lighter and more fruit forward – perfect red wines for summer when you put a slight chill on them.
The white wine grapes vary by appellation. One that I have been familiar with for years is the Picpoul de Pinet, a small region around the village of Pinet. It’s a longtime favorite of mine for hot Texas summers. These wines are made exclusively from the Picquepoul Blanc grape. Picpoul roughly translates as “stings the lip.” This is a perfect allusion to the bright acidity of these wines. There are richer whites made with traditional Rhône grapes like Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc. There is even some Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc produced.
When it comes to sparkling wines from Languedoc, perhaps the most interesting aspect is that historical evidence suggests the earliest documentation of sparkling wine production originated in Limoux, France, around 1531 with Blanquette de Limoux. This was well before champagne came into prominence as the dominant force for bubbles. One of the best current sparkling wines from Languedoc is Crémant de Limoux, primarily made with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Priced around $20-$25, these are worth trying if you see them on the shelf.
The history of winemaking in the Languedoc-Roussillon region goes back to 6th century BC when Greeks first brought grapes to be cultivated. Wine production was later expanded by the Romans, and easy access to ports along the Mediterranean increased the demand. The region was a significant wine producing force by the Middle Ages. Despite the ancient history, the region has struggled for recognition in more modern history as other French wine regions began to dominate the culture.
You can still find many village wine cooperatives across the region. This is where several growers in the same village pool their harvests to create singular village wines. Sadly, I saw that many of the cooperatives are either shut down or facing extinction. It was a bit shocking in some areas to see entire vineyards uprooted, with old vines piled up for disposal. The global trend of decreased demand within the wine industry was all too apparent here. Still, I tasted some amazing wines. And there are those who are determined to ensure this unique wine culture remains alive.
GÉRARD BERTRAND WINES
Gérard Bertrand’s father owned Domaine Villemajou, a wine estate in the small village of Boutenac in the Corbiéres appellation. Gérard’s first harvest was in 1975. He then spent 12 years as an apprentice to his father before having to assume ownership after the accidental death of his father in 1987. His passion for winemaking led him to create the Gérard Bertrand brand in 1992, and he set out to develop a range of wines from the best vineyards across the Languedoc-Roussillon region. The diversity of wines in his portfolio is remarkable. Along with that, it’s not a stretch to say he is the region’s greatest advocate. You can easily spot his more accessible wines on the shelves of H-E-B, Total Wine, or Spec’s in Texas, comfortably priced from $10-$30.
We tasted a wide range of wines he produces. By far the most interesting wine he makes is the Clos du Temple rosé. This small production rosé is a passion project. He bought the Clos du Temple vineyards with the specific intent to create the best rosé in the world. Gérard has basically made this small property in the isolated hills of Cabrières into a temple dedicated to rosé. I was struck by several gold-topped pyramids inside, which turned out to be wine vats. This unique winery was constructed within a hillside and seamlessly blends into the landscape. The Clos du Temple rosé is a blend of five grapes: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Viognier. Objectively speaking, it does indeed rival some of the best rosé I have ever tasted. It’s crazy delicious. Priced at $150-$200 a bottle, it may also be the most expensive rosé in the world.
My favorite moment with Gérard was listening to him talk about the importance of wine to the world, and how necessary it was to continue to produce wine from the ancient grapes in this region. “We are a depositer of a lifestyle. We are a depositer of an history, and we are a depositer of a culture. Yes, and the culture is to bring people together… That’s why we need to drink more wine. Because wine makes people happy! And when you start to drink, you stop [fighting] and you start [talking], yes?” Bravo sir!
DOMAINE DE FONTSAINTE
My extended wine adventure also started in the small village of Boutenac. Over 40 years ago the wine importer Kermit Lynch was having dinner in a restaurant there, and he ordered a bottle of the Domaine de Fontsainte La Demoiselle red wine. Kermit liked the wine so much he stopped by their house to speak to the winemaker, Yves Laboucarié. That chance meeting led to Kermit importing the Domaine de Fontsainte wines ever since. My much shorter history with this Domaine does go back several years because of their rosé wine, the Gris de Gris. Easily found for about $20, this has been an annual rosé must-have for me. Yves’ son, Bruno Laboucarié, is continuing the family tradition of making wine since the 1700s. The main Fontsainte plots are located where an old Roman bath existed. They have even found old Roman coins while cultivating the land, and their Clos de Centurion red wine is named in tribute to that historical aspect.
DOMAINE LES EMINADES
With a similar but much more recent story, Kermit’s son Anthony tasted the Les Eminades Sauvignon Blanc, Silice, and was so impressed he asked for a meeting with the owners, Luc & Patricia Bettoni. Kermit Lynch is now their importer, but due to the small production only four of their wines make it to America – one white and three reds. The first wine I tasted, the Montmajou white wine was just stunning. It’s mainly Grenache Blanc but has some Marsanne in the blend. The lively acidity backed up by white fruit and floral notes makes an impact.
Luc is both farmer and winemaker, while Patricia is a working pharmacist but helps quite a bit. We met in their tasting room, adjacent to their newly constructed winery. Luc shared some barrel tastings with me, and then we toured some of the vineyards. Witnessing his care and enthusiasm first-hand was an amazing experience. Truthfully, the entire lineup is fantastic. I believe they are well worth the $30-$40 price, but being so new to America (and scarce) makes getting them in Texas a bit more difficult. That won’t stop me from trying.
MAS JULLIEN & MAS CAL DEMOURA
Further east in the small village of Jonquières, these two small wineries sit side by side. Olivier Jullien founded Mas Jullien in 1985 when he was only 19 years old. Shortly afterwards, US importer Neal Rosenthal stopped by to taste the wines. He’s been importing them ever since. Ever evolving, Olivier has experimented with various plots and different grapes over the years. His deeply colored, luxurious rosé has a gastronomique edge to it like a Tavel rosé – well suited for food. Simply put, Olivier helped put the Larzac region on the map.
Seeing the success of his son, Olivier’s father opened Mas Cal Demoura next door in 1993. He sold the property to Vincent Goumard in 2004. Vincent was a consultant in Paris, but he had a passion for wine and pursued that dream. He and his wife Isabelle manage the winery together. Vincent says his goal of winemaking is to “…interpret the terroir as closely as possible, carefully managing what we do in the vineyard. I want my wine to reveal what we built in the vineyards.” Vincent also shared some barrel tastings with me, helping me to better understand the impact of terroir on the same grape. It was truly fascinating.
PARTING THOUGHTS
When I finished my travels in Languedoc-Roussillon, I was left with a profound appreciation for this region’s rich tapestry of wines and the passionate winemakers who craft them. From Gérard Bertrand’s visionary rosé at Clos du Temple to the historic vines of Domaine de Fontsainte, the innovative spirit of Les Eminades, and the terroir-driven elegance of Mas Jullien and Mas Cal Demoura, Languedoc-Roussillon is a region that can surprise and delight at every turn. These wines are steeped in history but still brimming with modern vitality. When you see “Languedoc” on bottles as you’re perusing wine shelves, I encourage you to explore their diversity, savor their value, and raise a glass to this hidden gem of a region that continues to represent the best of French winemaking. Here’s to discovering the heart and soul of Languedoc-Roussillon – one unforgettable sip at a time.
Follow Jim on Instagram, @tx_wine_pilot, for more wine tips and reviews.
Biography:
Jim Peterson is a retired U.S. Air Force officer who mainly flew the A-10 fighter jet. He has ties to the wine business going back over 25 years, has visited many wine regions, tasted the world’s top wines, and is an avid wine collector. His business, The Texas Wine Pilot, offers customized in-home wine tastings, corporate wine tastings, executive wine training, a wine concierge service, and wine collecting consultations. Visit txwinepilot.com or email him at jim@txwinepilot.com for more information.
